Sunday, June 12, 2016

Nombres, Apodos and Newspapers

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Shakespeare wrote under many names. Not pen names, mind you, but different variations of his given name. There are documents written by him, literarlly in his hand, where "Shakespeare" is spelled his differently than we are used to: Shagspur, Shakspar. And why not, so long as people could understand what was being conveyed? There is no "right" way to spell Shakespeare, any more than there is a "right" way to spell Kristen. Or Krystyn. Or Christen. You get the point.

The same goes for my name. (Kevin? Why not Kevan? Or Kevon? Pretty much any vowel works.) And the same goes for your name. This is because our names are made up. Even if you have a Roman numeral after your name, even if you are the 15th Franklin in your family line, even if your name has been appears in the Bible, it was made up by someone at some point, even if you believe that person was God. This is to because your name is a product of the literary tradition - that is to say the tradition of literacy, the tradition of reading and/or writing things down. The "right" way to spell your name was established because there was a popularity contest in the written record and Thomas won out over Thomus.

When I learned that I would be moving to a Spanish speaking country I assumed that I would be meeting people with names similar to the Latin American immigrants I am familiar with in California: Jose, Esperanza, etc. And while I have met more than one Juan and Maria here in the DR I have met far more people with names like Tirofio and Yirandy.

More than many names in other American countries - more than Ezekiel, or Enrique, or Steven - Dominican names are more obviously "made up" because they were more recently made up. Some of these recent coinages are poetic (Pijíro, Fredesvinda) but some are less so (Noelvis).

It's hard to talk about this without sounding judgmental, but I think this is a direct result of the literacy problem in the DR. If you've never read a book or written your own name, calling your child "Fraciey" might not seem as strange as it would to an educated person. Right now, Dominicans are doing their damndest to improve their educational system. The current government is building new classrooms all across the country. Most of the university students I meet want to be teachers. This is a beautiful thing, but they still have a long way to go. It is not uncommon to meet Dominicans of any generation who cannot read or write. The job title of Catherine (why not Katheryn?), my wife, is "Primary Literacy Promoter." Approximately 20 others in our cohort have the same position and they are needed.

Beyond the illiterate there are the alliterate - those Dominicans who can read and right but just choose not to. This is part of larger cultural phenomenon that I won't attempt to explain because I know I don't understand it, but I can describe. When Dominicans do do words they do them differently. Libraries don't exist in most towns here and those that do don't let you take the books home. Book stores are only found in the major cities. When I lived in a pueblo of nearly 20,000 I was surprised to learn that I would have to go to the provincial capital, an hour away, to buy a newspaper.

Beyond names, there are the apodos - nicknames. This has nothing to do with illiteracy or alliteracy. It's just a Dominican tradition to go by a name other than what you were assigned at birth. These I understand.

Some, like English apodos are derived from the given name: the "Felo" I know was born Rafael. Juan Carlos is often shortened to "Janqui" (a play on "Yankee"), and I meta Luis Fernando who is more commonly known as "Juife." Some are descriptive ("Blanca," White) and some are crude Cabo Prieto("Black Handle"). Some apodos are as common as given names. In my small town along the frontera, when you talk about Chicho ("Chubby"), you need to be clear whether you are talking about the former mayor or the guy who runs the lodge. My Don Pedro back in the capital is also known as Chicho.

I have met people of whose real name I have no idea and when I ask other Dominicans sometimes they're not that certain either. They can tell me where El Pirata lives and who his parents are is but aren't 100% about what's on his birth certificate.

Apodos are so common that they are included on political campaign signs. My CBT Don is named Victoriano but is better known as Nelson, so when he ran for regidor (Town Council - he won!) he made sure to include his apodo in parentheticals.

But even if I understand how these names and apodos came to be, it doesn't mean I understand them when they are given to me in conversation. I'm bad with names in my country. I'm no better in a culture that's not own when I am using a language I still haven't learned to think in. Ilario, I apologize. It's my problem I forgot your name, not yours.

That said, I still feel bad for the kid who told me his name was "Gravy."

Monday, June 6, 2016

Things that I saw in San Francisco that I don't see in my DR pueblo


Neutered dogs.

Human waste in the streets.

People walking dogs on leashes.

Declawed cats.

Collars on pets.

People cleaning up after their dogs.

Children wearing bicycle helmets.

Stop signs at intersections.

Recycling bins.

People you have lived next to for years but still don't know their names.

Police cars everywhere.

Adults jumping in terror at the sight of a cockroach.

Children going to school without uniforms.

Students sleeping in class.

People carrying hand sanitizer with them everywhere.

Newspapers.

People with visible displays of non-Christian religious identity.

People of non-European or non-African descent.

Openly gay people.

Rats the rize of chihuahuas.


Things that I see in my DR pueblo that I didn't see in San Francisco


Dog testicles.

Animal waste (dogs, chickens, horses) in the streets.

People walking horses and mules.

7 year olds riding horses bareback.

10 year olds driving motorcycles.

People walking safely in the middle of the street.

Children wandering safely and freely without adult guardians.

Speedbumps everywhere.

People burning trash.

All of my neighbors, every day.

Police sleeping in plastic chairs on the lawn of the station.

Adults jumping in terror at the sight of a frog.

Parents spanking their children.

Adults disciplining strangers' children.

People sharing food with strangers.

Everyone's laundry.

Doors left unlocked and open when no one is home.

People walking with parasols.

Ditches laterally bisecting the streets

Flying cockroaches the size of business cards.



Monday, May 30, 2016

Things that I do in the DR that I don't do in the US

 Greet 90% of the people I pass on the street.

Take baths out of a plastic bucket.

Walk 1 km+ to find a decent cell signal.
Carefully fold the TP after wiping to make sure only white is visible before throwing it in the zafacon.

Take a nice long nap after lunch.

Take transit 2+ hrs to the nearest ATM.

Eat fresh fruit from my backyard.

Eat fresh eggs from my backyard.

Drink milk.

Eat meat.

Buy TP by the roll.

Ride in the back of a pick up truck.

Ride on the back of a motorcycle.

Drink hot chocolate 4+ times a week.

Shave every day.

Play with strangers' children.

Things that I do in the US that I don't do in the DR

Sit next to strangers without introducing myself.

Take hot showers.

Spend hours on the internet doing nothing.

Flush TP down the drain.

Sleep outside of a mosquito net.

Commute 1 hr+ to work.

Buy fresh fruit at the grocery store.

Eat fresh veggies without first dunking them in bleach water.

Drink water from the tap.

Eat at restaurants.

Buy anything in bulk.

Ride a bicycle in the street with traffic.

Get a ride out of town a moments notice.

Drink more than 1 kind of beer.

Receive mail.

Sunday, May 22, 2016

How the Salchicha is Made

Now that elections in the DR have passed, I think it is safe to talk some about politics here. Not that I can say that much about them: Peace Corps volunteers are deliberately apolitical. I certainly have political opinions but it is inappropriate for me to share them here or anywhere else during my service. They would only get in the way. But I think there is no harm in describing how the democratic process works here - to the extent that I understand it.

On 15 de Mayo 2016 Danilo Medina, the sitting president of the Dominican Republic, was re-elected with 60% of the popular vote. This gave him a margin of 25 points over his nearest challenger, Luis Abinader, in the most crushing defeat in the history of Dominican democracy.

Danilo is a member of the PLD and Abinader the PRM. The remaining 5% of the vote was split between 6 other minority partidos. The biggest winner of these was the Alianza Pais with 2.5% of the presidential vote. In the American two party system we would call these "third parties" but this would be a total misnomer here. The minority partidos are more than three. They are more than 6 actually. All told, there are 32 registered partidos in the Dominican Republic and 26 of them matter enough to be included on the ballot.

Why, you ask, if there are 26 partidos were there only 8 presidential candidates? Well, there were more candidates initially but they dropped out when their partidos formed alianzas with either the PLD or PRM. On the surface the Dominican process looks a lot like the US: direct democracy, bicameral legislature, etc. The key difference is alianzas and the difference they make is huge.

Using an example from US politics, let's turn back time to the 1992 presidential election. Many believe that Bill Clinton was elected because Ross Perot, a "third party" candidate, cost George HW Bush crucial votes. This was exactly what the Republicans worried would happen. But imagine: what if, instead of saying "well, it's a two-party system and there's nothing we can do," the Republicans had signed a preemptive powersharing agreement with Perot's Reform Party? In exchange for dropping their presidential spoiler the Reform Party would receive guaranteed appointments for non-elected positions and support in some local elections. This would help the Republicans retain power by guaranteeing them the presidency and would help build the Reform Party from an upstart operation into a real party with office holders spread throughout the country. The parties could even campaign together!

In the DR this happens all the time. It is the bread and butter (or, better put, the beans and rice) of Dominican politics. This is why there were only 8 presidential candidates on the ballot. All of the remaining 18 "major minority" partidos formed alianzas with either the PLD or PRM. This is why Danilo, the most popular presidential candidate in the history of his country, appeared side-by-side on posters for candidates of the BIS, a minority Socialist party that took in less than 100,000 votes nationwide.

Sure, the BIS won't win the presidency without a candidate, but it's not like they really had a chance at that office anyhow. Significant local wins can help BIS establish a stronghold in certain parts of the country. This can be expanded upon over time and suddenly your minority partido isn't so minor anymore. That's exactly what happened with the PLD. PLD is currently the majority partido in Dominican politics. One of the 18 parties they allied with was the PRD, which used to be the majority partido. In fact, the PLD began life as an offshoot of the PRD!

So that's how the sausage is made at the levels of the partidos. But what does it mean for citizens? Like Americans, Dominicans grumble about how their politicians are all crooks, but to judge by voter turnout they are far less jaded than we are. This years election had over 70% voter turnout. I imagine it's because Dominicans can vote their conscience with the party of their choice without feeling they are "throwing their vote away" on a candidate who will never win.

The Dominican enthusiam for democracy is apparent not only in the polling place. Unlike the US where campaigns are mostly media affairs, Dominicans campaign vigously in the streets. Each of the 26 partidos has their colores and groups of suppoters regularly parade the streets in matching outfits, shaking hands and going door to door. This do this for months on end. I have been in here less than 3 months and not a week has gone by that I haven't encountered a parade or manifestacion of some kind, even when I was in a small town of less than a thousand people. It is exactly the kind of rowdy, participatory democracy that I have read that the US used to have.

Of course, there is a dark side. This year's election was notable not only for it's surprisingly decisive presidential victory but also for it's orderliness. At the church I attended during CBT the priest implored from the pulpit against violence on election day. Like Americans at sporting events, sometimes the excitement gets out of hand. Cheers for your team turn to jeers for the other. Rough words and blows are exchanged. Sometimes people die. In previous years, Peace Corps issued security alerts for volunteers to stay in their homes on election day.

But not this year. I was able to walk the streets of the small town where I now live and feel safe as I shared in the exictement. It was truly something to see.




Final note: Since my last entry my wife and I have been quite busy! We have received our site assignment, visited it for a few days, returned to the capital to complete training, and have moved permanently to our new site in the northern reach of the province Elias Piña where we live with a new host family.

I have a lot to write about! But I need time to process things. I'll post here when I have understood enough to have something intelligent to say.