Tuesday, July 18, 2017

The economic history of my town told in 7 houses

Before the Massacre

My mountain valley pueblo didn't used to be a Dominican town along the Haitian border. It used to be a sparsely populated part of Haiti along the border of the Dominican Republic. It's original name is Gabinzal, which I have been told translates to "dirty cane" in Haitian Creole.

When two very poor nations share a common rural border it is not uncommon for the line to be fuzzier in real life than it appears on the map. For much of it's history Haitian-Dominican border was  often in dispute, sometimes violently so. My town it didn't become a clear part of Dominican possession until after the Parsley Massacre of 1937 in which thousands of Haitians in the disputed territories were killed at the order of Dominican dictator Rafael Trujillo.

Trujillo's continued to "secure" the border by building la careterra internacional (international highway) along the line on the map and building colonias ("colonies") of recently released prisoners and their families on the Dominican side. (I don't know how these men landed in prison but given Trujillo's penchant for locking up and/or murdering opponents I am willing to give them the benefit of the doubt). 

This was the beginning of the story of my town. The rest of it is told in the different types of houses you can see walking around town.


1. Trujillo House 


Old timers tell me that in those days there was a wall around the settlement. Inside the wall were 28 homes built by the government, with wooden floors and walls and zinc roofs.



This modest home may not be one of the originals but it has the same form. This is a classic "campo house" design that is seen all over the country in rural areas.

2. Choza
The original settlers were satisfied enough with where they landed: clean water, lots of unoccupied land, good timber. and others began to follow. The colony began to grow as word spread to family, friends and others. These newcomers did not receive government constructed houses and had to do with local materials.




With time the original government houses were outnumbered by small chozas ("huts") with walls of woven branches and roofs thatched with yagua - the part of a palm leaf that connects to the trunk of the tree. In those days, no one was rich but the families in the chozas were even poorer than those in the wooden houses.

These days, a few chozas exist on the outskirts of own and they are still inhabited by the poorest of the poor: Haitian immigrants.

3. Ladrillo House
For fascinating reasons far too complicated to go into here, my town came to the attention of a a group of volunteers from Northern Europe in the early and mid-1980s. Much of the infrastructure in town, from buildings to institutions, can trace its roots to this admirable group. But instead of mere charity the volunteers worked alongside Dominicans, teaching them construction techniques using natural materials. The ladrillo (bricks) are made of the native clay of the soil.



These houses are handsome and durable but few. The program was successful but short-lived. The new "president" of the DR has other plans.

4. Balaguer House, unmodified
Joaquin Balaguer was Rafael Trujillo's right-hand man. While his legacy is less universally evil than his bosses  - Balaguer's environmental policies were particularly admirable - he shared his master's obsession with fortifying the border. In the late 80s he began the construction of 150 concrete block houses with reinforced cement roofs. Whereas Trujillo built homes to establish Dominicans on the border, Balaguer built houses to incentivize Dominicans to stay.








Cat and I live in one of these houses. They are built of cinder block and have the indestructible feeling of bomb shelters. But durability does not guarantee wealth. Here the poverty of the occupants is obvious: subsistence farming has left them with little money to modify or even maintain it over the course of the last 30 years.

5. Wooden house with block base and zinc roof 
While this house is nearly identical in layout to the Trujillo house it is more valuable because of the durable concrete block foundation. 


While smaller than either the brick house or block house and more modest in appearance it is a more reliable indicator of wealth because the owners of the house built it themselves without help from neither government or foreign volunteers.

6. Non-balaguer block house: In the rural economy cinder blocks are practically a currency. As with the last house, the owners of this home had enough to build themselves a handsome, sturdy home.



The parabola (satellite dish) is also a clue to the owners wealth.

7. Modified Balaguer block house:

With his public housing program, Joaquin Balaguer didn't just build homes. He created a source of wealth in the community. These houses are prized for their solid construction and modern design (they come with indoor plumbing and electric outlets). The recipients received a title to the home and land, which means they were legally able to sell them.



When a house is sold it is usually to a person rich enough to maintain and sometimes expand upon it. This house is owned by the one of the wealthiest couples in town and has been so thoroughly modified you can scarcely recognize the original design.





Tuesday, July 4, 2017

July 4th Reflections

All my recent entries (including this one) have carried the "Blogging Abroad Challenge" badge. I have signed up for this challenge in attempt to write more regularly and write from different angles. The second I saw this week's theme ("Quotes & Proverbs") one phrase immediately leapt to mind:Si no tienes padrino se muere sin bautizar.

"If you don't have a godfather, you die without being baptized." To get ahead in the world you have to know someone.

Dominicans use it with the resigned air that you use when acknowledging an unpleasant but long learned truth. This is especially true in a country that struggles with corruption as much as the Dominican Republic. Political favors, employment, even healthcare can depend on who you know or how much you pay.

I don't drop the C-word lightly. I have a disclaimer on the side bar of this blog stating that the opinions on this blog doesn't reflect the opinions of the Peace Corps but this is still very much a PC project. This means that I take responsible representation of my host country very seriously.

Peace Corps service is incredibly rewarding but it can also be baffling, frustrating, and disappointing. Sometimes you just need to vent but that isn't what this is about. Because corruption in the Dominican Republic isn't a matter of my opinion or my frustration but fact: it ranked 120 of 176 countries on Transparency International's "Corruption Perception Index." This means that there are 119 countries less corrupt than the DR and only 56 more corrupt.

The classic example of corruption is la botella ("bottle"): a job for which you are given a title and a paycheck but don't have to do anything. I once met a store owner who was also a prominent campaign organizer for the political party in power. As a token of appreciation for his efforts he was appointed "Assistant Ambassador to Canada" despite not speaking English or French or even having traveled to the country.

This example might be a little comical but corruption is a much bigger that that. The DR was one of 11 countries involved in the 9 billion Odebrecht bribery scandal - the largest such scandal in recorded history. . Seven people went to jail.

I feel OK talking about corruption because Dominicans talk about it. A lot. Corruption is a widely acknowledged problem that enters virtually every political conversation that doesn't involve a politician. And, rather awesomely, Dominicans not only talk but take action. The Odebrecht case appears to be the last straw for many. There is currently a nationwide protest movement (La Marcha Verde - "Green March") demanding el fin de la impunidad: "the end of impunity."

I have written admiringly about Dominican politics before and that hasn't changed. It is, in fact, quite heartening to know that they haven't given up on their young democracy despite everything. The people take to the streets to make their voices heard and voter participation is higher than in the United States.

Still, the folks in the green t-shirts and ballcaps have a long march ahead of them.

Today, here in the mountain village, far from any other Americans except Cat and any fireworks, I am grateful to have grown up in a country where where my education, employment and health didn't depend on my having a "godfather."

By CPI standards the USA is not the least corrupt country in the world but certainly far less corrupt than the DR.

We're number 18!

Happy Independence Day.

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Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Mule meat

The sailors and conquistadors who "settled" Hispaniola 500+ years ago came from Andalucia in the south of Spain. The African slaves they imported learned their Spanish from these men. The two groups mixed their words as they did their genes and although the language has changed much in the five centuries since Dominican Spanish still bears traces of the Andalusian accent.



Andalucía: You can see why they were good sailors.


Specifically, Dominicans "comer" (eat) many of their letter "s": always at the ends of words and sometimes at the beginning or in the middle. Adios becomes adio' and estamos ("we are") becomes 'tamo', etc.

Hence the following joke:

A man from Barcelona, in northern Spain where they prominently pronounce their "s", is traveling through the Dominican countryside when he asks a campesino: 


"Excuse me, do you use the letter 's' in your Spanish at all?"

The campesino laconically replies: "Pue', má' o meno'."


The punchline is more completely pronounced "Pues, más or menos" and means "Well, more or less." 


The butcher in my pueblo doesn't work everyday. Like many campesinos he strings together a lot of small jobs to make his living. He only works in the carnicería when there is meat to sell and announces his presence by blowing a conch shell.

My office window looks out at the carnicería so I hear him every time.  One day I hear the conch and go to see what he is selling.




"Buen' día' senor, what do you have for sale today?"

"Something very 'pecial: carne de mulo (mule meat)."

"Really! People eat mule meat here? They don't do that in my pai' (pais - country)."

", it's the best meat."

I was a vegetarian for my entire adult life before coming here so I am not a meat expert. I have heard that horse meat is a delicacy in France so mule meat doesn't seem like much of a stretch. That said, it's really difficult to get around in the campo. Personal vehicles are scarce and some "roads" are so too difficult even to pass on an off-road motorcycle. Not matter how good the meat, it seems like a waste to kill a mule.



"But señor, isn't the mule a really useful animal for carrying things over the through the hills?"

", it is," he says, looking at my a little confused.

"Then why would someone kill it for the meat?"

He smiles and speaks more slowly: "I don't mean to say mulo (mule) but mulo de cerdo ("mule of the pig")." He pats his thigh emphatically.

I am by this point totally lost. He must read it on my face. Speaking even slower he says:

"Not mulo (mule) but Muslo (thigh): Mussslo de cerdo ("pig thigh").  THAT is the best meat."

One year plus off the veggie wagon I am inclined to agree.




Tuesday, June 20, 2017

Nice to be noticed!

My entry "A Day in the Life of Hombre Serio Cero" has been republished on the Peace Corps website! They trimmed off some of the fat but the meat remains.

I put a lot of time into this blog so it's nice to know that I'll have chance to reach a broader audience.

Saturday, June 17, 2017

I Never Knew: 10 Impressive Adaptive Uses of a Machete

Dominicans in the campo carry machetes everywhere but rarely use the word. Instead they refer to it as a colín. Legend has it that this is a version of the brand name "Collins," the first brand of machete widely available here.

Dominicans now manufacture their own machetes under but still generalize the original brand name in the same way Americans speak of Kleenex and Band-Aids. My favorite Dominican brand? Bellota, whose name translates as "big beautiful thing."

Men put it on in the morning as part of their wardrobe but women and children use it too. My host mom keeps one in the kitchen cupboard. No one blinks to see a muchacho walking down the street with a razor sharp colín dangling loosely from his fingers.

It is used it almost everything. With a little imagination a machete an stand in for almost any other tool. A few examples I have seen with my own eyes:

  • Chef's knife
  • Wood planer: notch cuchilla (blade) along grain of wood and strike the dull side with a hammer
  • Hammer: rotate so that the dull edge faces outward and strike the nail near the hilt
  • Screwdriver (flathead only)
  • Ruler: drag pencil along straight edge
  • Scoring stylus: I have seen this successfully used on glass, ceramic tiles, and zinc roofing panels
  • Lawn Mower: squat and hack hierba with cuchilla parallel to the ground
  • Hatchet: apply sharp edge vigorously to any stick thinner than your bicep
  • Riding crop: apply flat of cuchilla to flank of mount
  • Garden trowel

Regular use of a colin means regular maintenance with a lima (file). On days when I get up early I will see my neighbors grinding the edge as they prepare for the work day ahead. Over time this changes the shape and size of the tool. My own colín is as broad as a scimitar but I have seen well-used that are now as narrow as a soldier's rapier.





Saturday, June 10, 2017

What a Dollar is Worth


As I write this the current exchange rate is about 47 Dominican pesos to one US dollar. It has been pretty stable throughout my PC service, fluctuating around the 45 peso mark. When converting in my head I round it up to 50 for simplicity's sake.

Dolla dolla bill y'all.

Here is a list of things that cost about 50 pesos or $1 USD.
  • 1 botellón (5 gallons) of water safe for the foreign stomach.

A single serve (.5 liter) bottle of water? 10 RD ($.20 USD).
  • 50 minutos of cell service 
  • .175 liters of VERY low quality rum 
The local nickname for this stuff is chiribita - "sparks."
I can easily eat a full meals worth of calories for less than $1 USD.  50 RD buys:
  • 5 sobres de avena lista (individual packets of instant oatmeal)
  • 5 heads of ajo (garlic)
  • 5 heads of organic butter lechuga (lettuce)
  • 10 individually wrapped loaves of "bread" (think hotdog buns).  
  • 10 huevos (eggs) bought wholesale by the carton of 25.
  • 1 lata of tomatoes

  • One used gorra, bought from a street vendor. It seems to be the standard price for a piece of previously worn clothing.
The last time I wore this, a woman called me Donald Trump.

All of this probably seems pretty comparable to US readers, and it is, until we get to big ticket stuff.

For instance, that same $1 US will cover 2.5 months of our municipal water bill.

50 RD will also buy a 45 minute ride to the nearest town. Sure it's only 7 miles but gas is a lot more expensive here. When I left San Francisco (a 7x7 city) the going rate was $2.25 USD (112.50 RD) for any ride of any length.

A complete shave and a haircut? 100 RD, ($2 US). And by haircut, I mean "straight razor shave to the scalp", why is my preferred style. In a big city, I would pay 200 RD ($4 US) for such service.

A hotel room in Santiago, the nearest big city, is 750 RD ($15 US) a night.  Sure, the accommodations are on par with Motel 6, but it's located in the heart of downtown.
The largest single expense Cat and I pay each month is rent. For a fully furnished, 3 bedroom ranch style house with fruit trees in the back yard we pay 3750 RD - about $75 USD. I defy you to find a place in the US where you could rent a single room for so little. This $75 was after we bargained down from 4000 RD ($80 US) and locals still think we are getting ripped off. A Dominican family would expect to pay about 2000 RD ($40 US) for the same house sans furniture.  

Cat and I had an in depth conversation about money on her podcast El Cuerpo de Cuentos:




Wednesday, May 31, 2017

On the Road

I just got back from the capital. I was there for a Peace Corps Conference to mark the 1 year of service in country. The journey is about 330 km, or 200 miles.

The DR is roughly the size of Maryland
Google Maps says that the journey should about 5.5 hours. A pair of capitaleños were in town recently and they made the journey in less than that but they did it in the middle of the night and had a hot shit 4x4 vehicle to navigate the rough roads.


August 2016
In the US, I can imagine a town-to-town journey of that distance taking as little as 3 hours, depending on traffic. On public transit in the Dominican Republic it usually takes Cat and I around 7 to 9 hours. The first 1.5 are spent just getting to the nearest paved road.

Conditions of the road vary depending on the rain. We're in the middle of the rainy season now and things have been deteriorating steadily, so that 1.5 is now about 2 for a journey of 35 km. The grader truck that comes by 2 or 3 times a year won't be by until the pause in rain that comes in the fall.

I try not to think about it.
The dirt road intersects with the paved road at a military checkpoint where la guardia civil desultorily checks the papers of anyone who doesn't ¨look Dominican¨. Sometimes that includes me but normally it is limited to those of obvious Haitian descent. El chequeo is at one of the peaks in the mountain range and afterwards our route to town is a descent down a curvy mountain road.  

I do this in the back of a pick up truck - the cabina is reserved for ladies, children, and the elderly - so I literally need to hang on to my hat. Passengers share space with the cargo: crops for sale going to market, empty gas tanks or empty water bottles that need refilling, etc. Sometimes, it's standing room only.

At least 10 more will fit in comfortably.
Two or three trucks leave the every morning. They are the only reliable transport out of town. It's possible to get a later lift but far from certain. If you want to be sure to make it to your destination you leave early.

The truck drops us in town outside the small local office of a large bus company: Caribe Tours. Accommodations are comparable to a Greyhound bus but in term of cultural importance CT is American Airlines.

I am a veteran long distance bus rider: I haven't owned a car since I was 19 and I am almost twice old that now. For much of my early adulthood I was too broke for airfare. In my early 20s, when every trip outside of Michigan was worth hours of discomfort, I considered any trip under 24 hours to be short. I took the bus as far east as Rhode Island, as far south as Atlanta, and far West as the boot-heel of New Mexico. A journey of 6 hours doesn't phase me.

The bus makes stops in most of the towns along the route, including a 10 minute break in Santiago, the DRs second largest city. I usually sleep part or most of the way.

We arrive in the early afternoon. From the main parada (bus stop) in the capital it is another half hour to the retreat center. Instead of a guagua (local bus) or carro público (imagine a sedan with 7 people in it that drives a fixed route), we opt for a direct cab. As it is an official PC event we get reimbursed for the passage: otherwise the trip would cost nearly 1000 pesos each - exactly 1/14 of my monthly salary.

The conference was held in the same retreat center where we were first received upon arrival in country. It was nice to see it again. The opportunity to catch up with old friends and share our experiences of the past year made the journey worth the while.

This view didn't hurt either.



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